July 16, 2011 Squid With Fettuccine in Black Squid Ink
Serves 1
A CookTale
I have many positive food obsessions, one of them
(and I don’t know why) is the black ink that all cephalopods (squid, cuttlefish, octopus) release as protective camouflage. The only association I can think of, and it’s a happy one, is a tiny dockside taberna in the fishing village of Setubal outside of Lisbon. With two friends, Arlene Wanderman and Gayle Steves, we ordered grilled cuttlefish. Our faces turned completely black from eating the delicious grilled cuttlefish and its black ink. I wish I could find those 35mm slides! I yearn for a repeat of the lunch.
INGREDIENTS
1 TB of Kosher salt
2 TB of EVOO
3 Garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 Tomato diced
1/2 Cup dry White Wine
1/4 pound cleaned Calamari
2 TB of Squid Ink
2 Ounces of dried Fettucchine
1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh Italian Parsley
1/2 Lemon
METHOD
1. Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 1 TB Kosher Salt.
2. Meanwhile, combine the Oil & Garlic in another large pot and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the Garlic is softened, about 1 minute. Add the Wine, bring to a boil, & boil until reduced by half. Add the Calamari and cook, stirring, until just tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk in the Squid Ink and remove from the heat.
3. Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving about 1/2 cup of the pasta water.
4. Add the pasta & 1/4 cup of the reserved pasta water to the sauce, stirring and tossing over medium heat. Then cover and steam together over low heat for 2 minutes. Add a splash or two of the reserved pasta water, if necessary, to loosen the sauce. Stir in the Parsley & Tomatoes, add a squeeze of Lemon Juice, or to taste. Serve immediately.
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- Posted under Dinner, Pasta, Seafood
July 15, 2011 Lemon Butter Caper Sauce
RECIPE
A CookTale
Our friend Ira Howard Levy called to wish Cathie a happy birthday, and asked “whats for dinner?” Sweetbreads, said I, and Ira said “with Caper sauce?”. Aha! There it was and I knew what the final touch would be. It was a fine addition and in Cathie’s words “smashing”.
INGREDIENTS
2 TB of whole Capers (drained)
1/2 TB of roughly chopped Capers (drained)
1/2 cup fresh Lemon Juice
1/4 cup Water
1/2 cup (1 stick) cold unsalted Butter, cut in 1/4-inch pieces
Salt (optional, the Capers are salty)
PREPARATION:
1. Add the whole & chopped Capers, along with the Water & Lemon Juice into a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, & reduce by half.
2. Turn the heat down as low as possible. Add a few pieces of the cold Butter & whisk vigorously, until the Butter blends into the sauce. Add a few more pieces of Butter, & repeat. When half the Butter has been whisked into the sauce, turn off the heat, & whisk in the rest.
3. Season with the optional Salt only if necessary.
4. Ready to serve.
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- Posted under Sauce
July 15, 2011 Veal Sweetbreads On A Bed Of Shitake Mushrooms With Caper Sauce.

RECIPE
Serves 2
A Cooktale
For days before July 14th, Cathie announced, “for my birthday dinner I want Sweetbreads”. Who am I to argue? Sweetbreads it shall be. and was! She was a happy birthday person & I received kudos for a dinner well done, Not well done, she requires rare, but well done!
RECIPE Veal Sweetbreads
INGREDIENTs
3/4 Pounds of Veal or Beef Sweetbreads
Milk to cover
4 cups Water
Kosher or Sea Salt
Juice of half a Lemon plus 1 TB of Lemon Juice
1/4 cup Wondra or other finely milled flour
Fresh Black Pepper
2-3 TB of Clarified Butter
2 TB of EVOO
METHOD
1. The day before cooking, place the Sweetbreads in a bowl or small container, cover them with Milk, and allow them to soak in the refrigerator overnight. Remove the sweetbreads, discarding the Milk, and trim any veins or dark bits. Rinse them well and set aside.
2. Place the Sweetbreads in a small pot, cover with water, and add a big pinch of salt and the juice of half a Lemon. Add the Sweetbreads, bring the water to a boil, and blanch them for about 5 minutes. Remove the sweetbreads and plunge them into an ice bath.
3. Line a small sheet pan with a kitchen towel and place the Sweetbreads on the towel in a single layer. Fold the towel over them to cover, place another sheet pan on top, and weigh it down – a heavy pot or a few cans of tomatoes work well. Place in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.
4. If your Sweetbreads are large, slice them into medallions. Spread the Wondra on a plate and season with lots of Salt and Pepper. Toss the Sweetbreads in the seasoned flour until well coated on all sides.
5. Melt the Clarified Butter & EVOO in a heavy bottomed skillet and cook the Sweetbreads over medium heat until golden brown, about 1-1/2 minutes to a side. Do not overcook them. Place the browned Sweetbreads on a paper towel-lined plate and set aside, tenting loosely with foil to keep warm.
RECIPE Sauteed Shitake Mushrooms
INGREDIENTS
24 Fresh Shitake Mushrooms
1/4 Cup of Shallots finely sliced
1 Ounce of Demi Glace dissolved in 1/2 cup of water
A splash of dry White Wine or Vermouth
2 TB of Clarified Butter
METHOD
1. Heat a saute pan & add the Clarified Butter. When the Butter is heated, add the Shallots. Do not let them burn.
2. Add the Shitakes face side down, & saute until them until wilted & have a light brown color. Turn & repeat. (cook in 2 batches if necessary)
3. Return them all to the saute pan, add the Wine or Vermouth & simmer for 3 minutes.
4. Add the dissolved Demi Glace & continue to simmer for a few more minutes. Or until the sauce has thickened.
5. Remove & keep warm.
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- Posted under Dinner, Offal, Vegetables
July 14, 2011 Black Olive Tapenade
A CookTale
Over the years I have been buying jars of Black & Green Olive Tapenade. And considering myself lucky to find them. In the Aug/Sept 2011issue of FineCooking on page 90 is a feature for “Tapenade, A French olive spread” that for me does the trick. It took no time to assemble the ingredients, no time for the food processor to make it happen. And It tasted like a tapenade crostini might, at a table in a garden in the South of France.
INGREDIENTS
1-1/2 Cups of pitted Black Olives (Kalamata or Nicoise)
2 TB of Capers, rinsed & drained
3 Anchovy fillets
1 Garlic Clove peeled & smashed
1 tsp of Dijon Mustard
1-1/2 TB of Lemon Juice
1 TB of EVOO
1 TB of finely chopped Flat Leaf Parsley
Black Pepper
METHOD
1. Place the first 5 ingredients in a food processor
& pulse until smooth.
2. With the motor running add the EVOO & Lemon Juice.
3. Transfer to a bowl & stir in the Parsley & 1/4 tsp of Pepper.
4. Can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to a month.
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- Posted under Side Dishes
July 14, 2011 Grilled Swordfish with Zucchini Spaghetti, Black Olive Tapenade & Plum Tomatoes

RECIPE
A CookTale
What could life in the kitchen have been like before the Mandoline became available as an everyday consumer tool? With its help It took no time to for 2 medium sized Zucchinis to become spaghetti.The next step was to transform a vegetable into a Pasta Aglio e Olio.
By putting on my Italian chef’s hat, it became a very tasty transformation.
RECIPE Zucchini Spaghetti Serve 2
INGREDIENTS
2 Medium Zucchini
2 Garlic Cloves peeled & thinly sliced
A pinch of Red Pepper Flakes
1 TB of Pignoli Nuts ( toasted in a dry pan)
1/4 Cup of torn Basil leaves
2 TB of EVOO
METHOD
1. Heat a deep sided saute pan & add the 2 TB of EVOO.
2. Add the Garlic Cloves & Red Pepper Flakes.
3. When they become tender & start to color add the Zucchini, the Pignoli nuts & tossto combine it all.
4. After about 5 minutes of sautéing, the Zucchini Spaghetti should be tender. It’s ready to remove & plate.
RECIPE Black Olive Tapenade Serve many
A CookTale
Over the years I have been buying jars of Black & Green Olive Tapenade. And considering myself lucky to find them. In the Aug/Sept 2011issue of FineCooking on page 90 is a feature for “Tapenade, A French olive spread” that for me does the trick. It took no time to assemble the ingredients, no time for the food processor to make it happen. And It tasted like a tapenade crostini might, at a table in a garden in the South of France.
INGREDIENTS
1-1/2 Cups of pitted Black Olives (Kalamata or Nicoise)
2 TB of Capers, rinsed & drained
3 Anchovy fillets
1 Garlic Clove peeled & smashed
1 tsp of Dijon Mustard
1-1/2 TB of Lemon Juice
1 TB of EVOO
1 TB of finely chopped Flat Leaf Parsley, Black Pepper
METHOD
1. Place the first 5 ingredients in a food processor
& pulse until smooth.
2. With the motor running add the EVOO & Lemon Juice.
3. Transfer to a bowl & stir in the Parsley & 1/4 tsp of Pepper.
4. Can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to a month.
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- Posted under Dinner, Fish, Vegetables
July 13, 2011 Hearts of Palm, Avocado, Heirloom Tomato & Lamb Salad On A Bed Of Greens
RECIPE
Serves 2
A CookTale
Over the past weekend I prepared two racks of lamb for a small dinner. Only one was required, the other simply stood by waiting to be called to action. Its turn came last evening. After a time in the fridge it was even more tender and delicious, (if that was possible?) Here is the detailed recipe & outside of preparing the lamb it’s quite simple. And the lamb, though terrific is optional.
INGREDIENTS
1 Ripe Avocado
1 Can or jar of Hearts of Palm drained (either full spears or cut into large pieces. Not marinated preferred)
1 Small head of Lettuce torn into bite size pieces (Bibb or Boston)
1 Ripe Tomato cut into a large dice (Heirloom preferred)
1 TB of EVOO + 1TB for the plates (divided)
Sea or Kosher Salt & fresh Black Pepper
METHOD
1. Cut the Avocado in half lengthwise, & cut each half into thin wedges. Then carefully remove the skin.
2. If using Lamb, remove the eye of the Lamb from the rib bone. Just before plating, slice it into 8, 1″ pieces.
3. Add the Lettuce to a mixing bowl, toss with the TB of EVOO & divide between the two plates.
4. Arrange the pieces of Hearts of Palm & the Avocado slices decoratively over the greens. Drizzle the 3/4 tsp of EVOO on each plate.
5. Divide the diced Tomato between the plates.
5. If using the Lamb, add 4 slices to each plate.
6. Season with Salt & Pepper & serve.
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- Posted under Dinner, Meat, Salads
July 12, 2011 Dinner of Sausages, Roasted Vegetables & Basil Pesto
A CookTale
Comes Saturday morning, I make certain that when 10: AM rolls around I’m at the Farmers Market picking up the just laid down beautiful farm produce. I guess It’s a country way of being first on line for important openings. Also the way to learn about wonderful local farms
& their location. (And for the most generally pleased to receive a weekday customer.) My new friend Joe, grows what he knows best, Italian herbs & vegetables. When you ask, “Joe. whats this?”. He answers, Pepperone, & you then get an earful of Italian! Summer in the Hudson Valley. The farmers market rules.
RECIPE Sauteed Farmer Market Vegetables
Serves 2
INGREDIENTS
4 Patty Pan Squash (small to medium)
4 Young Summer White Onions.
4 Sweet Long Italian Peppers, (Pepperone)
4 small Garlic Cloves (peeled)
Basil Leaves
Red Pepper Flakes
Salt & Pepper
2 TB of EVOO
METHOD
1. Wash & cut the vegetables into bite size pieces.
2. Chiffonnade the Basil Leaves (set aside)
3. Toss the vegetables in a mixing bowl. Add EVOO, Red Pepper Flakes, Salt & Pepper.
4. Heat a deep-sided saute pan & add the EVOO & the Garlic cloves. When the Garlic begins to color, add the vegetables.
5. Saute until tender, browned & starting to char. If they look dry add a dash of EVOO.
6. Ready to plate.
RECIPE Italian Sausages Both Sweet & Hot
A CookTale
All Italian sausages are not created equal. After much trial & error, I am becoming an authority on all things sausage. And yet still not certain of which market, which combination of forcemeats & which type, hot or sweet suits my taste. I guess I opt for sweet 2 to 1. How to cook them is another challenge.
For me, a cast iron grill pan heated to a smoke rules over an outdoor grill, more control! Be sure to puncture each with the tines of a fork before placing in the pan. And please, do not overcook & dry them out. Too easy to do.
INGREDIENTS
4 Italian Sausages (2 Sweet 2 Hot)
1 TB of Olive Oil for the pan
METHOD
1. Heat a cast iron grill pan & add 3 ounces of water to the heated pan.
2. Add the Sausages. cover the pan for a few minutes. They’ll plump up.
3. Remove the cover & allow the Sausages to grill until browned & tender. Do not cook them to death, their ready when clear juices run.
4. Remove & allow them to resettle for 5 minutes.
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- Posted under Dinner, Entree
July 11, 2011 Spaghetti With Tomato, Basil, Pignolis & Chanterelles. A Plate Of Summer
Serves 1
A CookTale
After an amusing late brunch at Terrapin in Rhinebeck, NY with our good friends Stan Gurell & Ira Howard Levy, all Cathie wanted for dinner was steamed Broccoli. Good for her!. Another chance for me to wolf down a pasta. On this hot early evening my taste buds turned to spaghetti with tomato, basil & pignoli nuts. I then remembered that a few of those delicious chanterelles were still in the fridge, better eat them or they’ll go bad.
As I commented in the description, ” Why do I only think of preparing this delicious pasta In the Summer? Because it is a plate of Summer.
INGREDIENTS
2-1/2 Ounces of a good Imported Spaghetti
1 Cup of Grape Tomatoes halved or 1 ripe Tomato cut into a large dice
6 Basil Leaves torn into large pieces (or more)
1/4 Cup of Pignoli nuts (pan toasted)
A few Chanterelles or Cremini Mushrooms ( definitely optional)
2 TB of EVOO
A pinch of Red Pepper Flakes
Kosher Salt & Black Pepper
Parmesan Cheese (optional)
METHOD
1. Bring a pot of water with 1 TB of Salt to a boil. Add the Spaghetti & cook to al dente about 8 minutes (or follow the box directions).
2. In a mixing bowl, add the Grape Tomatoes or the Tomato, the Basil leaves, Pignoli nuts, Mushrooms & EVOO.
3. Season with the Salt, Pepper & Red Pepper Flakes.
4. Toss in the Spaghetti & mix it all together. Parmesan cheese is optional
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- Posted under Dinner, Pasta
July 10, 2011 Sauteed Fresh Chanterelles
A CookTale
Good things come to those who wait. I waited and 3 baskets of newly foraged Chanterelles came my way from Heather Ridge Farm in Preston Hollow, NY. They awaited me at the Saugerties Saturday Farmer’s Market.
Strange what gets me excited at this stage of my life.
I couldn’t wait to get at them & when I did they responded like they knew how much I was enjoying them. The recipe is simple, all it takes are the Chanterelles. do your utmost to forage them at your most favorite specialty market. Eataly or Buon Italia in NYC might be a good start.
Can be prepared in 30 minutes or less
INGREDIENTS
1/2 Pound fresh Chanterelles
2 TB of unsalted Butter
1 TB of EVOO
1/4 Cup dry White Wine
3 TB OF coarsely chopped fresh flat-leafed Parsley Leaves
Salt &Pepper to taste
Fresh Lemon juice to taste
METHOD
1. Halve Chanterelles into lengthwise thick slices.
2. In a large non-stick skillet, melt Butter & EVOO over moderately high heat. When foam subsides, sauté the mushrooms & keep stirring.
3. Add Salt & Pepper to taste, until the mushrooms are barely tender, about 2 minutes.
4. Add the Wine and cook, stirring, until liquid is evaporated and the mushrooms are tender, about 5 minutes.
5. In a bowl, toss the mushrooms with Parsley and Lemon juice.
·
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- Posted under Entree
July 10, 2011 Rack of Lamb, Sauteed Fresh Chanterelles and Flageolets

The Dinner On The Table
Serves 3
A CookTale
When you begin with wonderful ingredients-
hand picked Chanterelles by the forager at Heather Ridge Farms & Racks of Lamb from Fleischer’s Grass-Fed Meats- it makes for a safe start to a successful main course. The only not so great ingredient were the jarred Flageolets Beans, even though they were hand carried from Paris by our great friend Jean Michel.
The individual recipes for the Rack of Lamb & the Chanterelles accompany their photos on today’s blog.
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- Posted under Entree, Meat, Vegetables






